A Family Affair: Pondera Winery
Todays wine adventures brought us to the Warehouse District of Woodinville, where close to 50 wineries host tasting rooms, so the ability to sample the best of WA state is only steps away from one another. I took the advice of another winemaker and when I asked him what he enjoys, he pointed me to Pondera Winery.
“Pondera” which means balance in Latin, is the perfect descriptor for the wines made by Shane Howard. Starting in 2005, Shane has crafted some of the most well balanced red and white wines using grapes from the highest regarded vineyards in Eastern Washington. Named the 2021 WA Winemaker of the Year, the title is well deserved as he has produced consistent tasting wines which are all ready to drink upon purchase, as he ages his wines in barrel and bottle longer than most. The tasting room is also an awesome experience, as the space doubles as an art gallery, a profession that Shane’s mom and dad were doing before the winery started. Shane’s parents, Dan and Pat Howard, are the tasting room managers and bring a warm feel to all their guests. Additionally, Shane’s uncle Mel, is an artist and designer who has created the wine labels for Pondera, as well as illustrated a fun book about the winery and wine making process.
The Classic Tasting offered to guests features 6 delicious wines, 2 white and 4 red. The 2020 Viognier was crisp and refreshing with lots of citrus on the palette and enough acidity to keep you coming back for more sips. The 2020 Chardonnay was specifically the wine that I enjoyed most, and it truly stopped me in my tracks upon first sip. While I am not a fan of Oaked and Buttery Chardonnays, the initial nose gave me the impression that it might lean that way, although most Washington Chards don’t. I was pleasantly surprised when I took my first sip, that there was almost no oak taste and absolutely no butter at all! Instead, I was met with tart apples mixed with honey and just a bit of toast towards the finish. For a crisp chard, it had great complexity and mouthfeel, which is usually only achieved with heavy oak aging, but Shane pulls it off with a brief time in new oak barrels, and the remaining in neutral. The 2018 GSM was medium bodied as described but kept all the strength of a typical Bordeaux blend and yet didn’t feel overpowered by alcohol. The red fruit stole the stage and made for a light red that stood up to any other GSM but could be enjoyed on a scorching summer day.
The 2017 LTD (Livin the Dream) and 2016 SVS (Single Vineyard Series), are both comprised of Cabernet, Cab Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot, but the difference in blends are what set them apart. While LTD, which is Cab Franc heavy offers a rich and smooth Bordeaux blend of red fruits and toasted wood, the SVS hits hard with a single vineyard cabernet and really shows off the fruit. I can’t say enough good things about WA Cabernet and this bottle is just another example of what makes it so special. Lastly, the 2018 Reserve Malbec was a perfect and delicious end to the tasting, rounding out the flight with big chewy flavors including dark fruit, spice, black pepper, violets, and dark chocolate. It should be paired with a thick cut of meat, but I would easily drink it by itself on a cool evening.
Before leaving, I was lucky enough to talk with Shane as he dropped by the tasting room, and I asked him about his methods and what makes his wines so approachable and balanced. He told me that his goal is always to put the fruit forward and let it do the talking. He doesn’t add any additional tannins or chemicals to change the flavors, but instead has worked tirelessly over the years to perfect his blends and let the wine do the talking. He was also gracious enough to open and pour me a glass of his 2016 “Discovery” Cabernet from Horse Heaven Hills. Holy moly was this cabernet perfection in a bottle, and any Cab from H3 is worth adding to the collection! We left with a few new bottles, a few new friends, and a high recommendation for anyone to see the Howard family at Pondera Winery.
